Day 16 Russell and the Bay of Islands

We awoke to a beautiful morning and a fantastic breakfast with homemade croissants, jam from fruit trees in the yard and lovely conversation, even Crabby and Crabette joined the table.  Those crabs do seem to always be around for meals.

We booked a boat trip to see dolphins and the bay. The catamaran is 60 feet long, 18 tons, powered by 2- 800 hp Cat diesels that will jet her along at a comfortable 20 knots with a top of almost 30. 

It lived up to our expectations; we saw a pod of the small common dolphins that the guide estimated at 300!

Then out 20 miles to a rock formation that creates a hole we took the boat thru.   

 Crabby & Crabette took the trip with us.

4 hours later we got off on the other side of the bay and walked to the Mauri Treaty Signing Museum.  The place tells a remarkable story of what is best described as a marriage between the natives and the English with no possibility of divorce- it is a work in progress after almost 170 years.  We spent 6 hours on that side including a lovely Chinese dinner and a ferry ride back to La Veduta and an early night.  Here are some of those photos.

Ceremonial grounds and Captain Cook Christmas tree:

Mauri ceremonial canoe:

Mauri dancers:

Teaching Bill the Mauri dance (verdict's still out on that one, but A+ for effort):

   

Day 15 Auckland to Russell in the Bay of Islands

Our hotel is next to Sky Tower in Auckland but it was so overcast we never thought of going to the top.  After breakfast in the hotel with members of the Aussie Rugby team, several of who were limping, we got the car and began the NZ adventure. We drove north out of the city on Motorway 1, while most traffic was coming toward us.  Soon the road changed and we were driving thru beach front towns and along emerald green grassy fields that rose to the mountains or sloped to the shore – as green as the Irish country side, but on a larger scale.
 
We stopped several places to see old settlements, have coffee, eat lunch and visit a museum that told the story of a major Scottish settlement.  We arrived at the ferry dock about 3:30 and crossed to Russell to find the B&B called La Veduta.  Spectacular is an understatement, the breathtaking view of the town and harbor is surpassed by the warmth and charm of our hosts, Danielle (from Normandy) and Dino (form Florence).  We sat on the deck looking at the sunset and chatted like old friends. We unpacked, had dinner in the hotel on the waterfront, and then came back for a good night’s sleep.

A final few Fiji photos

 Beach view from Bure (cottage)

It's safe to sleep under green coconuts - it's the brown ones that fall!

Day 14 Depart Wananavu and travel to Auckland

The day began with news that both Jane Hoveland and Shelly survived the wrath of Hurricane Irene for which we are thankful . Our departure was sweet sorrow - the staff truly makes you feel you are family leaving to return soon, quite a special place.

We were picked up by a driver who was very talkative about Fiji. He is of mixed feelings about the military government- corruption rampant before so the military is an improvement; that is good but foreign development has come to a halt and that eliminates jobs. Most Fijians work hard but barely get by so there is little realistic hope of significant betterment. Education for their children is a way for them to improve and his 3 boys are all in school.

Once at the airport Chris realized that she left her purse in the cab! We went to security and were taken to the police office where they called Wananavu who called the driver who came back with the purse, all in about 30 minutes. After security and a snack we boarded the flight to NZ.

We were met at Auckland as scheduled and taken to our hotel, which is beautiful. We unpacked and walked around finding an ATM and an Indian restaurant where we had a delightful Tandoori combination platter then back to hotel and sleep. Tomorrow we get our car and begin to drive north on this island.

Day 12 & 13 The Real Fiji

We had a leisurely breakfast buffet that was not exciting but good and the friendly staff who greet you by first name make you feel a part of this incredible place. It is a wedding destination and we got in between two weddings. The first had booked the whole resort and that's why we had to stay in Denarau. Bob and Mary had the same issue and that's why we happened to drive out with them - lucky for us.

We were in relax-mode the 12th day (as evidenced by photo below of Bill, Crabby, and Crabette).

Chris did snorkel on the reef off the marina while Bill just took a plunge in the Pacific. If this place was not half way around the world it would be ideal for a destination winter holiday to get away from everything, including phones, TV, dependable Internet, and night life. It has lots of water activities, especially diving, and local excursions.  Here are some photos of the resort lodge & pool, our cottage, and the view from our shower:

Our trip to church Sunday was an unexpected adventure. The resort arranged for a cab to take us round trip so we brought no money. Mass was in Fijian; we were welcomed as "our guest couple" and surprised that several parts were in English. The leaders talked with us afterwards and supported us when our cab was 40 minutes late. We were getting anxious but didn't feel abandoned. We were relieved to see it finally come.

Back at Wananavu after lunch we learned about coconuts from a wise old Fijian. The 5 stages of development are important if you live off of this tree of life but we need to remember that the brown coconuts fall off trees and can hurt you if you are beneath them. Chris had another massage, also therapeutic! It did wonders for her.

Our last dinner was fantastic starting with a magnificent sunset, all pink and yellow and gray. Next we talked with 4 guys from NZ who we had seen earlier and we joined our tables for dinner. They are on a diving, fishing, snorkeling 10 day vacation while the "girls" are shopping in Sydney. They each live in NZ but not born there- Mike from South Africa arrived 50 years ago and owns the dairy farm he began working on and is now retired. 2 others are US and also retired from local jobs. Paul a Dutch Polynesian retired as well works with refugees from Myanmar. Dinner ended with another birthday celebration for Chris, candle, cake and singing; she loved it. Then we were treated to the traditional farewell song by the entire staff -very warm and beautiful.  Here are the singers on the dining deck:

Day 11 Wananavu

We had breakfast on the dock at Port Danarau and then checked out of the Sofitel. A taxi picked us up for the drive to Wananavu, we joined Bob and Mary for the 3 hour ride north along the coast thru small towns and sugar cane fields. They are Kiwis from Auckland and he represents the NZ owners of the resort. What a treasure of information about Fiji's history, culture, and government. It was a first rate guided tour which Chris has recorded in her journal.

Arriving at Wananavu required miles of gravel hard pack mixed with some smoothish pavement, then we turned off the main highway onto a dirt road that challenges some of the off road 4 wheeling Bill did at Nemacolin a few weeks ago. It's like the road to Sage's barn only steeper and more ruts AND 2 miles long but worth every bump and jostle to get here! It's tucked on the side of a hill that flows to a pristine beach and an azure sea. Everyone was so welcoming and helpful that by 3 pm we had lunch, a guided tour and Chris was on a massage table. She said it was medicinal because the ER doctor said to get one to relax the muscles, and it did wonderfully!

We missed the sunset but sat and enjoyed the day's end on the deck overlooking the Pacific. Soon we were joined by Mary and Bob and then Ben and Rachel-the managers of Wananavu and their 4 year old Grace who had a "split" bananas dessert before bed; she reminded us of Jack and Jessie, captivated and absorbed in her Dad's iPad. We talked over drinks and then thru dinner until the staff closed up around us, but not before we were each served the local ceremonial drink "Kava" which in large volumes can result in a marijuana like stupor. Not very tasty! It was a very lovely evening. 

Here is a view from the dining room:

Fiji Photo Fun

 New friends from Fiji.

 Simon the carver selecting wood.

 The marlin roughed out in 30 minutes with an axe.

 Lovo cooking pit.

 Lovo pit with leaves

 Lovo uncovered (dinner's ready!)

 Fijian dancers

Bill in the dance (he's still got it!)

Day 10 Denarau Island Fiji
We awoke to a peaceful ocean front view with fair sky and puffy clouds, the temperature was in the mid 70's and got up to the low 80's by mid afternoon.  After breakfast we went to the beach to watch a neighbor islander carve wood.  What an understatement- Simon is an artist of classic talent.  He asked the spectators what they wanted him to carve and a woman said a fish, so he examined the pieces of wood he had and started to carve. He uses a carving axe made of a blade taped to a bone for the handle for the majority of the shaping.  Then a couple small chisels to make groves and finishes with sandpaper before polishing with a boar tusk and neutral shoe polish.  The marlin pictured took him about 30 minutes to rough out as shown.  The next block became a turtle finished in less than 25 minutes,  I was captivated.

Next we walked  over to Port Denarau and wandered the dock area and watched people coming and going to neighbor islands, some tourists but many locals with supplies.  Then we walked back and changed our sweaty clothes -  it's really hot, for the first time.

We watched a native weave palm branches into trays and baskets to make the Lovo an entire dinner placed in a fire pit lined with hot stones and covered with banana leaves and a cloth covered in dirt (check out this link, it describes it well: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g294331-c135090/Fiji:What.Is.A.Fijian.Lovo.html). After 2 hours the pit is uncovered and the food is fully cooked and very moist. The pork, poultry, beef and root vegetables became the native food buffet at the hotel dining room. After the food was removed a group of dancers in traditional dress performed native dances and songs with so much energy and passion that you had to become part of the celebration; actually Bill was picked to join the last dance.

We signed up for a wine tasting -15 wines from NZ and AUS - surprised? The wines were great but the company at the table made the evening! A Kiwi with a Brit wife, 3 from US - a couple from FL/PA who live in Guam and a friend from FL. They were off for a shark dive, good luck!
We exchanged contact information with a great group of people.

 Christmas Islands, about 10,000 people live there - discovered by an Australian on Christmas day‏.

 The international terminal and the name of the town.

Crabby and Crabette in Fiji, now the adventure begins!  (Notice Crabette is still wearing her wedding outfit.)

Day 8 and 9 Honolulu, Fiji with a stop at Christmas Island

Becky and Chris took Bridget to school this morning while Bill and Katie stayed home to have breakfast.  Then on to the the airport and our first international leg.  About 3 hours into the flight we made a "technical" stop at Christmas Island, dropped off 4 fly fishermen and picked up a dozen or so others.  No idea why it was called a technical stop but it seemed like it was an arrangement with Quantas that happens irregularly. After an hour on the runway we were off for the rest of the trip to Fiji. 
Fiji consists of 300 islands of which 4 have significant population, total is about 800,000.  We are on the main island Viti Levu .  More after we see something other than a beautiful resort hotel that is pretty much like many others around the world.
Today is August 25th we crossed the dateline and lost a day, my world clock says it is almost 6pm on the 24th  in DC and the time here is 10am on the 25th.  
We truly loved reconnecting with the Norton's, felt like leaving home, thank you for sharing your home and your beautiful girls!

More Hawaii Photos

 Pre-wedding photo of Bill, Katie, and Bridget.  The girls wanted the crabs to get married.

 Crabby and Crabette wedding photos.

 More wedding photos (notice the top hat and veil).

 Katie making her kitchen web.

 After brunch photos.

 Mike was there too :)

 Post-wedding photos at the Bishop Museum.

 Post wedding lunch with Crabby and Crabette (no crab soup on this menu!)

 Green sea turtle.

Pink pineapple and precious little ladies.



Day 8 plantation, sea turtles and snorkeling Sunset Beach

Mike had to work so Becky took Bill and the girls off to new beaches. We had a delightful day, a scenic drive to the North shore, lots of quaint towns and white sand beaches. An "awesome" lunch according to Bridget at Bobs's pizza palace which did have a tasty Portuguese bean soup along with pizza. Next stop was turtle beach where we saw lots of green sea turtles then on to snorkeling at Sunset Beach. In the winter, it's home to big waves and surfing competition, today just a beautiful calm shore with few people and lots of sand and sun. Becky, Bridget and Chris saw lots of pretty fish. Chris enjoyed the drive up and back reading Narnia to Bridget. We had a great farewell dinner with Mai tais and flank steak, where Mike showed off his Bay Ridge training.

Day 7 Kaneohe Bay and The Bishop Museum

As we began the morning, Bridget decided that Crabby and Crabette should get married! So while Katie was spinning a large spider web around the kitchen and dining table, Bridget (with some help from Becky) made wedding cloths for the happy couple. When finished we set off to find a site to do wedding photos. On the nearby beach Bridget found a ledge in a small cave that was perfect. She wore her veil and Katie found a piece of line to brighten up the shot. The photo shoot was interrupted by a serious rain shower so we hurried home to dry out.

We dressed up for a delightful brunch at the Officers Club. This base is as large as a little city and still expanding. It was too rainy for beaches so we went to see the Bishop Museum. Chris fell in love with it. It was a gorgeous 1850's building which Bishop (American) dedicated to his wife after she died (Hawaiian royalty) to preserve Hawaiian history and customs. Because he was so financially astute and honest and because she was so good and generous, they were fully accepted by both cultures. The museum included pre-history of how the islands developed from volcanos (with demonstration) and settled, a section on dinosaurs (with moving examples including new discoveries of feathered ones), and a global section with a planetarium.

Hawaii Photos - Day 6

 The Nortons - Bridget, Becky, Katie, and Mike. 

 Pali overlook.

 The outrigger crew: Chris, Bridget and Mike.

 After a successful ride into shore.

 Bill and the girls.

Mass at Ft. DeRussy.

Day 6. Norton family and visits to Pali and Waikiki.

Another good night's sleep and Chris says she has almost no residual effects from the fall!! The girls, Bridget and Katie, adopted Crabby and Crabette, hope they are able to continue the adventure with us.
We visited Pali lookout and then drove to Honolulu for a stroll down to Waikiki window shopping and people watching, always fun. Lunch on the beach front and then a canoe ride for Chris, Mike and Bridget - surfing seemed too challenging at least now for Chris - we have at least one more place to try. It was 40 years ago that she did it the first time on this very beach.
Next Fort DeRussy and a dip in the pool and a cold drink until the beach front Mass. This was a wonderful mixture of the native Hawaiian traditions with flowers, hula, conch shell sounding welcome and a Catholic Mass. Doubt we will see a Mass more beautiful!

Day 5 Oxnard to LAX to Honolulu

After Chris got up from a well deserved sleep she said she feels pretty good, has not taken any of the good drugs all is healing nicely. The photo of Chris shows the minimal bruising under her right eye, the glasses left the biggest mark.
We took the senic Pacific Coast Highway back to LAX, the clear sky revealed the legendary beauty of the coast. We cannot thank Bob and Carolyn enough for their hospitality and friendship, truly great people and fun to be with!
The trip to Honolulu was good - Hawiian Air even served a complementary dinner that was pretty good. We were met by Mike Norton with leis for both of us before we went to their home for a great night's sleep.

More California Photos

Crabette with Bob, Carolyn and Chris at Herzog Winery.‏

Oxnard Heritage Square-15 early 1900's homes that are now shops‏.

Result of Chris' fall, not too bad.  Good thing her "abnormally thick skull" (that's what the doctor said) was there to protect her.

Day 5 - off to Hawaii.  We added Crabette to our voyage to keep Crabby company.



Day 4 continued - late Thursday

I had a new experience: 6 cute paramedic firemen giving me full attention along with a neck brace before strapping me to a gurney and giving me my first ambulance ride. I missed a step and slammed my head in a wall (no, I wasn't drunk). The CAT scan technician said I had an unusually thick skull and my neck was okay too. The doc gave me some pills and told me to have fun on my trip, so I slept soundly from 3 to 11.

I was impressed by the medical staff, but even more impressed and appreciative of the love and concern Bob and Carolyn showed. Sitting in the waiting room was way beyond expectation. It's great to have old friends who stay so close after 40 years.

Day 4 relaxing day with Willards in. Oxnard

We had a truly relaxing day, lovely weather, a visit to farmers market in the town square. Later to Heritage Square, 15 early 1900's homes moved to the square that make up a quaint shopping area. A very imaginative use of artifacts to create a unique destination. Then off to Herzog Winery for a tasting - good wines and a interesting restaurant. Back to the Willards home for dinner and some Herzog wine and a goog nights sleep.

Ventura Photos

Crabette takes Chris to the Pacific.  (Hope she doesn't make a break for the ocean, Crabette that is, not Chris.)

Chris and Crabette overlooking Ventura and the Pacific.

Cross on the Hill, Ventura.